Books Info

Doc Bush’s Bud Farm book is completed. An excerpt will be published here first. This is an example of “deep water” aquaculture… which provides excellent results in very tight quarters. Low height? Small areas? This book is the answer. The entire system has one input: nuturients and one output: buds. No messy dirt, bulky pots or expensive tables.

Over an extended time, this system has yielded some of the best and the biggest buds. Current results have shown that an extended root area system just may be THE ticket in terms of indoor gardening.

The folks at Quick Trading Press have now published “The Big Book of Buds” by author Ed Rosenthal which features the HashMaster strain. Follow the link below to reach their site.

With luck, QTP will publish the Bud Farm book for availability next year. In the meantime, check the information on general growing below.

The Big Book of Buds

by Ed Rosenthal

A comprehensive guide to the worlds top strains from the great breeders. See and compare the best that the best have to offer. Hashmaster is featured and you can get more information at

Ed and crew have created a definitive guide to the vast variety and creative spirit of the ganja nation. Here you’ll find ‘everyone who is everyone’ in bringing cannabis to the world.

Doc Bush Seed Company Information

Doc Bush Seeds is a small seedling of a company. We only produce our own strains beginning with “Hash Master” line. We do have two new varieties that are available now… “Super Pink” and “Northern Master” a cross between Northern Lights #5 and Hashmaster. These two seeds stocks are the beginning of future seed lines which will include: Super Pink, Thai Rain, Blue Truck, LuluBelle, Rhain, G-13 and Vision! Unstabilized back-crossbreeds are available at this time. By spring of 2002 we will have several of these strains stabilized and available.

We do not sell seeds from other places or other breeders. It is our objective to retain complete quality control by producing an ever expanding line of excellent cannabis. Our own genetics are the basis for truly superior strains – all of which have been tested and approved by medical cannabis patients in Canada. We’re happy doing one thing really well.

We are interested in spreading Hash Master far and wide. Out of all the strains we have grown indoors or outdoors, THIS one is one of the very best… and the good Lord knows we’ve tried lots and lots of strains over the years. It is kind of a mission – so to speak.

Hash Master is a wonderful hybrid, she has a definite classic hashish smell and produces a wicked, chronic uplifting high. The plants do well in a wide variety of conditions and environments. The genetics provide enough adaptability to suit indoor or outdoor production. We have a number of STRONG recommendations regarding growing this variety – heed them to your benefit. Overgrow the governmentals! Protect your constitutional rights.

Doc’s Top Ten Recommendations

How to Sprout Seeds

Growing seeds is very easy... but you HAVE to pay CLOSE attention. 'Missing it' by just a few hours will, of course, KILL your sprouts. A lot of people use paper towels on a plate, moistened with distilled water. I've done this. It works fine. I happen to use unbleached coffee filters. I would recommend that you cover the plate with clear plastic to make SURE that they do not EVER dry out. I also have a tendency to add one drop of vitamin B1 (Superthrive) per litre/quart of water as well.

I would also recommend that the temperature be controlled: 85 degrees Farenheit or 30 degrees Celcius. You can take the temperature up a bit more – but cooler temperatures reduce the percentage of sprouts. Darkness is a good idea as well.

Just AS SOON AS the shells crack and the root tip starts to emerge – PLANT IT. Place the seed, tip down into soil, peat cubes or any MOIST (not wet) pH balanced medium. Give the seedlings a mild nutrient solution. A flowering formula is good at this point – not too much nitrogen.

Most seeds will sprout within a week. After 10 days, that is about it. If you let them dry out, they never will sprout. Our tests show an 80% germination rate.

My other favourite technique is to use small peat cubes. Soaked in water they are about 2″ tall. I mix a mild flowering solution with a product called “No Damp” – which prevents a fungus that attacks seed sprouts. Then I just pop a seed into a 1/4″ deep hole and place the cube into a gardening flat with a clear plastic humidity dome. This allows a bit of air circulation but keeps the peat pellets moist. Again, moist – not wet. The humidity should be about 80% and the temperature about 85 degrees.

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Doc’s Basic Grow Guide

Flower Hash Master clones 10 days after rooting. This means about 20 days after cutting.

Do NOT vegetate this strain for very long -OR- the plants will grow to 4′ tall (or more). Flower them short! You can top the main stem and grow for another week. Trim the lowest branches in order to generate four good colas.

Keep your temperatures between 70 degrees and 85 degrees maximum. If you have CO2 production, up to 90 degrees maximum. Drop your temperature at night about 15 degrees.

Bright lighst mean big buds: 45 watts per square foot or MORE. 1000 watts = 5′ x 5′ space

Lots of ventilation and serious air movement. Strong stems produce larger flowertops. Turn your fans off during the night cycle. This is the time the girls grow mass.

Ample nutrients in proper quantities. Balance your pH to 6.3 for best results.

Humidity should be 60% – no less than 40% and no more than 70%… unless you have spidermites

Lock and conceal the grow room door. Lights leaks and strange noises are a giveaway.

Dry your buds in a cool, humid (70%), ventilated DARK space.

Use predators to control bugs. Address any problems IMMEDIATELY.

Get an ozone generator to control odors.

Good genetics count the most. You can never get great buds from a substandard variety!

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Spidermites are the worst bane in any indoor garden! Two Spotted Spider Mites (tetranychus-urticae) are the most problematic pests to attack your garden. I have fought them with so many products.

There are two ways to attack mite infestation: Biological or Chemical
I now recommend that you buy predators that are RIGHT for your environment… ie: 70% humidity @ 80 degrees F for persimillius etc. There are four different predators with varying feeding and reproduction patterns. Choose one that is more adaptable to your garden – alter your conditions to encourage them and help them breed!

Spider Mites feed on leaf tissue by piercing the plant surface with sharp forcep like mouth parts sucking the sap, destroying chlorophyll and causing stippling. Damage first appears as small silvery brown spots on the top side of the leaves. In the advanced stages the leaves will look completely silvery to white and webbing will appear on leaves. This will lead to defoliation and eventual death of the plant.

Spider Mites live and breed on the underside of the leaves. Eggs are very small and translucent in color. Young Mites are whitish and almost translucent in color, while the older Mites are dark brown to black in color. Each female can lay up to 100 eggs in her 30 day life span. When the eggs hatch they go through one larval and two nymphal stages before becoming adults. Under optimum conditions the life cycle can be completed every 14 days.

Biological Control – There are four different types of predators that feed on the eggs, juveniles and adult spider mites. Predator mites also breed twice as fast as spider mites. Each variety of predator mites has it’s specialty depending on humidity, temperature and Infestations. They are:

Galendromus Occidentalis – Does well in low humidity, 50% and higher relative humidity and is tolerant to the pesticide Sevin.

Neoseiulus Californicus – Good persistence at low temperature and high humidity 90 degrees max temperature needs minimum 60 degrees temperature also good for low density of Spider Mites (its a slower feeder)

Meseiulus Longipes – Good for high temperature low humidity tolerates 40 degrees humidity and 105 degrees max temperature.

Phytoseilus Persimilis – Needs 60 – 90 % humidity and 70 degrees to 90 degrees temperature, this one has a ferocious appetite and is very active eating 20 young or 5 adult spider mites per day.

The trick with using biological controls is in the environmental conditions. It is critical to match the predators to the existing conditions. Often the conditions are such that spidermites are encouraged by the hot, dry climate. If you CAN achieve a cool, humid environment, the pests will be discouraged. I have had the most success when using the Phytoseilus Persimilis by pushing the humidity WAY up to 85% and drop the temperature if at all possible. Spidermites do not hatch as well at high humidity conditions.

More info to follow. I promise!

Now, here’s more: I have started using a product called “AVID” by trade name. It is the by-product of a soil mico-organism and has a fairly low toxicity index. This inhibits the feeding cycle of all mites which eat it…. they eat, they die. More hatch, they eat, they die. No more eggs to hatch and the problem is gone. Usually takes two applications. Also seems to protect the mother plants for about three weeks. Clone cuttings treated with AVID seem to resist even mite-infested locations for long enough to eliminate the problem.

I do NOT recommend this solution for plants within four weeks of finishing. This means you must get the problem taken care of earlier. Another product by Nutrilife called SM-90 applied as a foliar spray seems to work quite well. I have not fully researched the toxicity index of this product – but it appears to be quite ‘friendly’ and thus can be recommended for plants later in the flowering stage.